This is a really interesting spot! I've been for the first time just a few months ago and been really impressed. It's just a breath from the city centre with superb view to the city of Chania and the harbour. The climbing area consists of a face around 100 meters wide and up to 12 high. It's well bolted and you wont face any run out here. You can climb all year long in Monte Vardia except the very hot summer days and between 13:00 to 17:00 o'clock. Having said that, if you are from northern Europe and you really like sun you can give a try .
The southernmost climbing area in Crete is Agiofarago. The area's characteristic is the rock, which is very sharp, along with the combination of climbing, swimming and walking. Most of the routes are inside the gorge with the oldest ones situated on the beach or near the beach. Here you will find some of the most difficult routes in Crete, up to 8b+, from single to multiple pitches. There are just a few lower than 5c where most of them are around 6c/7a. Almost 90% of the climbing routes are equipped and you will only need quickdraws and 60-70 meters of single rope to repeat them. Having said that, there are also many where natural anchors must be used. Those are usually the first routes in the area opened in late 80s. The place is marvellous and you will enjoy climbing and swimming in one of the most beautiful places not only in Crete but also in Greece!
Malia is surrounded by olive groves and the slopes of mount Selena. Malia is best known for its lively atmosphere; however Malia is not only for young people, it has a lot to offer everyone (almost) especially if you visit the old city and a few km before the traditional village of Koutouloufari, you wont regret it. The beach is the one of the best in Crete, three miles of fine, golden sand, which gradually slopes into the warm, clear blue sea. Just a few km away there is a climbing spot too :)
In Dikti you will find the best climbing spot for climbers who are looking for to try traditional climbing routes without dealing with high grades of difficulty. The most difficult rock climbing route is around 6a+ and there are plenty near to 5a/5b+. Having said that, the long routes, the loose rock in places and the long (in some routes) access, contributes to an absolute adventure.
During winter, things are more complicated. Rock, frozen snow and rarely ice, lead to the ultimate escape from the daily routin. Be aware that winter climbing in Dikti's gullies are quiet difficult and is not recommended for newbies.
This is a huge slab! Some really hard routes are here. The main cliff of Plakias is just a few meters away from the beach (superb for swimming) with excellent quality of rock and up to 80 meters high. Some bolts need to be replaced but most of them are ok to climb. It faces north west and is possible to climb almost all day even during the summer. There is a camping to stay and plenty of hotels in the area. to reach the clmbing routes all you need is a 2 minutes walk. There are some fantastic routes in this area.
This is one of the three largest caves in the prefecture of Heraklion.It's just a few minutes driving from the village of Skotino and is at a height of 225 meters above sea-level. Many dyno's here! There is one route at 5b, one at 5c and 3 between 6a+ and 6c. Rest are really hard, up to 8b+, maybe more. It's a lovely place to climb during the summer as it's always in the shadow.
In this area newbies can't do a lot unless you can climb easily 6c. There are 5 routes under 6a and around 20 between 6b to 7b+. The place is too warm to climb during the summer but ideal during the winter. The area is located before reaching the village of Tries Ekklisies and you'll see it on the left as you going down. All you need is 2-3 minutes walking to get to the starting point.
The 14 km drive up the gorge is considered spectacular and is popular with Chania residents for the cooler temperatures and grill restaurants of the village. Apart from this there is also interesting for rock climbing . Here there are many routes for all tastes. Along the road to the village of Therissos you will see all the routes that vary from V up to X- (UIAA) and almost all of them are protected with bolts. In some of them you may need nuts, friends and some slings. You will certainly enjoy your climbing here as long as you climb easily 6a/6b as most of the routes are close to that level. The easiest climbing area is the one with graffiti ''ΛΟΚ'', the initials of the Greek Special forces who use this area for rock climbing training. You will get a detailed view of the climbing sectors by choosing any of them from the top menu. In the mean while let's get you informed about some other important aspects of the area! This climbing area is the most important for local climbers as in just a few minutes from Chania you can get there and start climbing a large number of routes.
This is the first sector as you are entering the area. It's very easy to find the routes as most of them are also mentioned in the beginning of the rock so it's not really necessary to provide a topo.
Each number of a route is outlined on the rock. There are a couple of boulder problems and a few tope rope in this sector.
Routes from V to VII exist in this sector.
As usual routes up to 12 meters exist in this sector too. All routes are marked on the rock for easier navigation.
Plenty hard routes (around VIII) on this sector.
Plenty of boulder problems in this sector.
This climbing area is around 17-18km away from the city of Chania. It's a very beautiful place with superb view to the sea. You wont find any bolts here, the spot is for traditional climbers only and therefore you will need a full climbing equipment to enjoy the routes with safety. The biggest route in the area is around 110 meters. Double ropes of course are necessary, 2x50m are recommended around 8-9mm. The quality of the rock is quiet good and you wont find it difficult to place your nuts while climbing.
An excellent spot for traditional climbing with superb view to the sea. You will need around 45 minutes to get to the starting point of the routes. Full climbing equipment is needed for those routes.
It is the second biggest ridge of Greece and it is shows.It is located in the beginning of Samaria gorge in the prefecture of Chania. The access to it can be done with a public bus (KTEL) direction to plateau Omalos. Be aware that public transportation runs only during the summer months. The climbing sectors of Gigilos are mainly two, the first it takes the main face of the mountain while the second the towers of Gigilos. On the second area you will find many bolted routes up to 120 meters while in the main face of the mountain routes up to 1200 meters.
"Polemistis" (fighter) is situated on the " Wall of Agrimia" (wild goats) between the routes "Oxia" and "Fleap and Freak". A characteristic point of the route that can help you to locate it is the 20-meter corner of the third pitch, which is a bit to the left and lower than the big corner of "Oxia".
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