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New routes, Prinias
I was looking something really close to my flat while searching for rocks. I start cycling around the area and found a small cliff, around 8-9 meters and a second one around 18m, well protected from the weather conditions. It is perfect for newbies as all routes (9 in total) are low and easy (5a+/6a+). All routes are equipped with 10mm stainless bolts and belays are ready with two bolts and a ring ready to abseil. You can climb all year long apart from hot summer days due to been in sun most of the day. You need around 30 minutes from Heraklion to Prinias and just 10 from my flat cheeky

Voulismeno Aloni is a sinkhole located on the foot of Strouboulas mountain, next to the old national road, at the 14th kilometer from Heraklion to Rethymnon. You need just a few minutes to get there. There are 12 routes in this climbing sector. All of them are very hard apart from one which is around 6b+ (the first from the right side of the sector). There are routes up to 8a+ in this area.

Abas gorge and climbing routes
In the summer of 2003 Kabourakis Manolis and Psaraksis Kostas decided to descend the gorge of Abas in Asteroussia mountains, which starts from the village of Paranimfi and ends down in the sea at Tris Eklissies. This is the reason that we didn't follow the path which goes up in the east edge of the gorge but instead we went along the course of the water. This bring us to an end where we had to climb down the 160 metre waterfall, and believe me, that was not so easy.

This is a new climbing area opened recently from local climbers in Rethimno. It is very close to the city of Rethimno. A detailed description of the area will be added soon. All information posted for this area collected from Thodoris Vourvachakis (many thanks).

The village of Kria Vrisi is around 45km from the city of Rethimnon (see map below). You will need around 40-45 minutes to get there and a few more to reach the climbing area. The first routes opened from Dimitris Titopoulos (a Greek mountain guide). Since the first published routes there been a few more probably during a Cretan climbing meeting from various climbers. Unfortunately I wasn't there that day and don't have more info about those routes apart from two of them which managed to climb during my last visit.

UPDATE: Vourvachakis Thodoris sent us over the latest routes of the area. I've add them and also update a few grades which seem to be not accurate. Many thanks to Thodoris.

Area Info

If you've been around the area for swimming bear in mind that there is a small climbing sector too. The area itself does not reserve a long trip just to climb as it doesn't have to offer something extraordinary. Instead there are a few routes, up to 12 meters and most of them without bolts but can be climbed using tope-rope. The area is splitted into two sectrors, the first one is on the left in the quarry and the other one around 200 meters on the left inside a small gorge. The bad thing is that during the winter it's almost impossible to get there due to germination, it's like hiking in a jungle! However, hike up the quary and follow the path, the climbs are on your right hand side. You will figure out how to get there

This is one of the best climbing areas for climbers who climb up to 5c+/6a as all routes are up to that level.
The area takes just a few more routes as it's almost full. All routes are well bolted and rock is typical limestone.
There is enough space to park your vehicle. The area is too hot during the summer so avoid going there in the middle of the day. The best period to climb there is from October to May.

Area Info

This sector is located on the left of the area just a few meters from the road.

Area Info

5c is the most difficult route in this area. Great spot for beginners. Just avoid going there during the hot days of the summer.

There is nothing funcy in this area. However, if you are close for swimming and got your harness try a few routes. The area has two main sectors, one up to the quarry and the other one inside the small gorge on the right as you see it from the road.