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This is a new route opened in 2009 in kofinas north face from Jassas Uli and his wife Karina. Is is a nice and easy traditional route. The name of the route is "Via Bavaria". Below you will find a detailed description of the route along with a top as sent from Uli.

Area Info

If you haven't read the introduction article of Kofinas please do so as it contains vital information about the area and how to access the routes described in this page. There are two ways to aproach the routes on north face of Kofinas. The first one from Sternes village (click here to see a detailed map) and the second one from Kapetaniana (click here to see that map too). Both need an off road car as in some parts of the road the surface is really bad. You can however aproach the area by walking. You will need an hour from Kapetaniana to the small church on the bottom of the routes.Four routes opened in this area at the moment, all multi pitch. One of them are still under construction so no further details will be given until we sort out the whole route.
To access the routes on the south face as described in the introduction article just take the path to the monastery of Koudouma and somewhere in the middle turn left.

The first time I saw it I was awed. The second time I was left speechless looking at it for half an hour and the third time I shouted "belay" at the bottom of the imposing massif of Kofinas. One of the most beautiful mountains in Crete, south of Iraklio, with great climbing interest. The north face has three routes and the south five where two of them are multi pitch. You wont find many bolts here, just a few in belays. In the summer of 1999 two Austrian climbers climbed for the first time a long and difficult route for which we know almost nothing and the few information that we got were from Gunnar who lives and climbs in Kapetaniana. If you happen to climb that route or you know something about it please get in touch with me.