Area Info

This is a really nice spot for climbing early in the morning untll around 14:30 pm which is in the shadow. Excellent rock, fully bolted as usual by Zbynek Cepela apart from route L'hypothenuse which needs a few nuts, friends and slings. To access the area follow the off road to Agios Ioannis for around 2km until yu see on your right a small stone contruction (see image below). There is a small blue sign from there pointing to the path. Follow the path on the right and then after 5 minutes turn left until you reach the bottom of the gorge and then turn left until you reach the climbing sector. You will need around 15 minutes to go there. The area is well protected from winds and offer some really great routes. Try definetely the route Kri-kri (6a, 22 meters).

Area Info

Very sharp rock, completely different from all other sectors in Kapetaniana. I've been only once to this sector and wont go again. It is very windy and on some routes the bolts are not on the best possible place making hard to put the quickdraw. You will need around 10 minutes to access the area.  Follow the road to Agios Ioanis for around 2km. See photo below for more details.

Area Info

A great climbing sector with plenty of nice routes with excellent view to the sea. The area face west which means no sun the whole morning until 15:00 o'clock. Some of the hardest routes (8a+) can be found here. All routes in this sector opened from Zbynek Cepela, Manolis Kampourakis and two of them from Philippe roca. To aproach the routes follow a small gorge for a while and then climb left until you reach the 1st routes. You will need around 10 minutes to get there. For the rest of the routes make your way around the ridge and you've done. That will take around 20 minutes from the car.

Area Info

This sector is located on the left side of Minoan library (opposite) to the right of the path which leads to the monastery of Koudoumas and can be seen clearly from the same parking as Minoan library sector. To get to the area just follow the signs from Kapetaniana to the monastery of Koudouma and after around 2.2km from the village stop to a small plateau. You should see from that point the sector as showing in the image below.

Area Info

This is located just a few meters on the right from Schafstall sector 1 and is in the shadow usually in the early morning until 14:00 o'clock. Very beautiful routes exist in this sector. I've added a panoramic photo of the area below listing all 3 sub-sectors for easier navigation. To visit each sub sector you need just a couple of minutes (3-4).

Area Info

This sector is located just above the belay of sector 1. To reach the area just follow the same path as described on that page (click for more). You can also see the sector marked on the image below. 4 easy routes are located here along with one at 6b (maybe more).

Area Info

This is one of the most visited places of the area. You will need just 5-10 minutes of driving from Kapetaniana. Just follow the road to the monastery of Koudouma and after a while (around 1,5km) you will see the climbing area on your right.

Area Info

This sector is located somewhere in the middle of the area of Minoan libray and you will need around 5 minutes to get there either if you make an abseil or if you follow the main path. Route called "First Book" might be the most beautiful in the whole area. Do not miss it! This sector is in the shadow after 4 o'clock pm so be prepared to get burned if you climb earlier than that during the summer.

Area Info

Next to sector 5 is this one with four routes, all opened from Zbynek Cepela apart from "Cretan diet, 7a+" which opened by Manolis Kampourakis. You can open more routes in this sector if you can climb above 6b.

Area Info

This sector is located as soon as you abseil, as seen in the photo below.  It is located on the left side as you seen the area from the parking. Plenty of very easy routes exist here along with one at 6a.