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Good bye to a great alpinist

Erhard Loretan mountaineering curriculum

Numerous first ascents in the Andes
1982 First 8000er, Nanga Parbat (8125m) via the Diamir Face.
1983 Gasherbrum II (8035m), Gasherbrum I (8068m) and Broad Peak (8091m) ascended in 17 days, from 16 to 30 June
1984 Manaslu (8163m) in spring and first ascent of East ridge of Annapurna (8091m) in autumn.
1985 Two attempts of the South Face of K2 (8611m), then ascent of Abruzzi Spur in July. First winter ascent of East Face of Dhaulagiri (8167m) in December.
1986 In winter Loretan enchained the "imperial crown" of the Valese Alps: 38 peaks, 30 of which higher than 4000m, in 19 days. In August he ascended the North Face of Everest via the Hornbein couloir together with Troillet. The 43 hour round-trip was the first alpine style ascent of this route and they reached the summit on 30 August. In October he carried out a dramatic attempt up the SW Face of Cho Oyu, during which Pierre-Alain Steiner died.
1987 a year off due to two serious accident.
1988 Erhard Loretan, together with Voytek Kurtyka, reached the summit of Nameless Tower via the East Face (6257m, Trango Towers), Pakistan
1989 In January together with André Georges he enchained 13 North Faces in 13 days in the Bernese Oberland. Failed attempt up the west face of K2.
1990 First ascent of the SW Face of Cho Oyu (8201m) followed, a few days later, by another first ascent, this time up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8046m) Tibet.
1991 Makalu West Face attempt and ascent up the west pillar (8463m)
1992 New attempt up the West Face of K2
1993 Failed attempt on Kangchenjunga (8586m), Nepal
1994 Ascent of Lhotse (8516m), attempt abandoned of enchaining Lhotse Shar (8386m). On 1 December Loretan summited Mount Epperly (4780 m) in the Antarctic: first solo ascent of the mountain up the 2700m high face.
1995 Successful October ascent of Kangchenjunga (8586m). Erhard Loretan becomes the third person in the world to have climbed all 14 8000ers, after Reinhold Messner (1986) from Italy and Jerzy Kukuczka (1987) from Poland. In December Loretan climbed a virgin unnamed 4600 m peak in the Antarctic.
1996 Numerous solo ascents to 6000m in Tibet.
1997 Failed attempt to traverse the Mazeno-Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
1998 After more tha 25 expeditions to the Greater Ranges, the time had come to devote a year to the Alps and to his profession as a Mountain Guide. In May, he climbed Cotopaxi (5897m) and Chimborazo (6310m) in Ecuador.

Posted on: 10/10/2011