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Via Bavaria IV+

This is a new route opened in 2009 in kofinas north face from Jassas Uli and his wife Karina. Is is a nice and easy traditional route. The name of the route is "Via Bavaria". Below you will find a detailed description of the route along with a top as sent from Uli.

Kofinas North Face
Name : „Via Bavaria“,  IV+
Total length :190 m
Climbing : 120 m
First ascent : Müller, Ulrich and Karina Müller, (9/ 2009)
4 Hangers and one suspicious hook installed (9/2011)


Adventure route: You need friends, nuts, hooks, and slings. Beware of  loose or falling rocks!


Access : Drive from Kapetaniana along the track towards Moni Koudouma (Kofinas) until a sheep fold (3,5 km from Kapetaniana, P3). Then go down to a valley with flowers and macchia and from there up to a remarkable block (8m * 10m). From here straight up (direction south) to the visible half opened cave.

Route description : Start at a half opened cave (1080 m) , there is a fixed sign (Via bavaria) and some red points are marking the way up. Follow the channel, first left, then right and 30 m straight upon in a dihedral. First belay at a remarkabel stone. Then go further on (50m) to the visible caves. Climb along the second cave to the first hanger  (10m) and then along a crack to the second hanger (17m). From here up to a terrace where the belay is at a hanger.. From this point -over a little inclined slab - crossing right to the summit wall, where a 7m high conifere stands at the bottom of the wall. Here begins the dihedral to the top (22m).

Climb along the dihedral to a suspicious hook, then right up to a hanger and then under a roof and right to the top (be careful with the stones). From here go 150m left to the kofinas church (summit) and return back from the normal hiking path.

Kofinas climbing

Author: Müller Ulrich

 

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Posted on: 20/09/2016






Stelios, posted on 09/10/12 17:58:34
Many thanks to our friend Uli for the photos and the details of the route.