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Dikti- Rock, Part II

Dikti, Lasithi CreteThe choices that you have are many and variform. Routes for all kinds of taste, All you need to have is good psychology, these are mountain rock routes, not sport climbing. If your vehicle isn't four wheel drive (4X4) or motorcycle off road and you prefer to leave your vehicle in the plateau of Lasithi then you will have to walk for about 1,5 hours.Visit this place and I ensure you: you'll miss Dikti before you land back home. Detailed description about the rock climbing in Dikti Mountains.

Name of route: Kri kri (3)

First ascent: Petmezas T. ,Alejiou A. ,Lamprinaki G.

Grade of difficulty: V,VI-

Length: 190 meters

Quality of rock: Typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)

Permanent protection (bolts etc): Some old pitons

Starting point: See photo

Necessary gear: Full climbing equipment

Return: From Diagonal

Commentary: Long route with exposed and loose the 2nd and 3rd pitch

Best season: From may to September except from the classic route of Kri Kri there is also Kri Kri direct route which moves straight up the wall above the 1st belay, avoiding the 2nd pitch and joining the route on the 3rd pitch. Solid, badly protected and hard (VI-) it was climbed for the first time by A.Theodoropoulos, Kotoula G., Spinthakis F. Most of the routes (winter and summer) return from the Diagonal Gully.

Name of route: Diktamos (4a)

First ascent: Manalis , Spinthakis F & G

Grade of difficulty: IV (IV+)

Length: 180 meters

Quality of rock: Typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)

Permanent protection (bolts etc): One - two pitons

Starting point: See photo

Necessary gear: Full climbing equipment

Return: From the Diagonal

Commentary: From the exit of the route we continue up on easy scramble until the top of the Face. The Diagonal gully is on our right

Best season: From May to mid October

There is also the Diktamos variation which goes left from Diktamos. It has the same expansion and the difficulty is VI-. The rock is very loose. Not repeated.

Dikti rock climbing, Lasithi

Name of route: The edge of tsikoudia* (5)

First ascent: Theodoropoulos A. , Petmezas T.

Grade of difficulty: V (V+)

Length: 200 meters

Quality of rock: Typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)

Permanent protection (bolts etc): A couple of pitons

Starting point: See photo

Necessary gear: Full climbing equipment

Return: From the Diagonal

Commentary: Enjoy the down sloping slab before entering the scrambling area near the exit

Best season: From May to mid October

* Tsikoudia is a traditional Cretan drink. Taste it, is perfect.

Lasithi rock climbing

Name of route: Indian (4)

First ascent: Spinthakis F & M, Grammatikakis G. , Loukakis N.

Grade of difficulty: VI (VI+)

Length: 140 meters

Quality of rock: Typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)

Permanent protection (bolts etc): Nails on the belays and 5 nails on the second pitch

Starting point: See photo (1,5 hour hiking from Limnakaro plateau)

Necessary gear: Full climbing equipment

Return: From Diagonal

Commentary: Maybe the best rock climbing route so far in Dikti. Fantastic view and moves but with relatively long approach. Do not let the long approach change your mind. This is a *** route!

Best season: From May to mid October

Dikti rock climbing, Lasithi, Crete

The last pitch passes near a nest of predactories. Please be careful and don't disturb them with aimless shouting. In the first picture you can see the route and the nest as well (with brown color).

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