The cave of Psychro is one of the most important cult places of Minoan Crete. The use of caves as cult places was one of the basic characteristics of the religious beliefs of the ancient Cretans. What this has to do with rock climbing in Dikti? The answer is, nothing but it's close to Dikti and it's a good place to visit :) Let's talk about climbing now.... Detailed description about the rock climbing in Dikti Mountains. Routes:
Skirka street
Annoula
Indian
The edge of tsikoudia
Fairy Diktamos
The edge of Karpenisiotes
Kri - kri
The return route is using the Diagonal and sometimes the path E4 at one's pleasure (not recommended though because of the length of this route). Apart from the above routes there are also the following:
-Latzoi , first ascent by Katopodis
- Trasanis L.
-Alexia, first ascent by Georgakopoulos G
- Karavelas N. , 120 meters IV
-Falling Lessons, first ascent by Litsas G., Papa D., Manalis K., 120 meters IV
-Little Finger, first ascent by Georgakopoulos , Lamprinaki , 25 meters IV
-Moving staircase, first ascent by Karampelas N., Nikolopoulou Kl. , 100 meters III.
Some of these have not been repeated since their first ascent during the Greek Climbing Meeting in 1988, organized by the Mountaineering club of Iraklio and the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing.
A more detailed description of the routes is following.
Name of route: Anoula (number 1)
First ascent: Euthimiou , Magitsis , Kostagiorgos
Grade of difficulty: V- (VI-)
Length: 150 meters
Quality of rock: Typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)
Permanent protection (bolts etc): One piton on the first belay
Starting point: See photo
Necessary gear: Full climbing equipment. Do not forget your helmet
Return: Same as Odos Skirka. Alternatively scramble the gully up to its end and climb up a 50m pitch to the reach the top of the face. In this case descend through the Diagonal Gully
Commentary: Hard and short. The first pitch is a bit loose, the second (crux) is a pleasant crack inside a corner
Best season: From the end of May to mid October
Name of route: Odos Skirka(2)
First ascent: Dimitriadis , Randoglou
Grade of difficulty: IV
Length: 120 meters
Quality of rock: Typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)
Permanent protection (bolts etc): None
Starting point: See photo
Necessary gear: Full climbing equipment. Do not forget your helmet.
Return: Left from the exit (see photo) downclimb and walk down the gully. Alternatively scramble the gully up to its end and climb up a 50m pitch to the reach the top of the face. In this case descend through the Diagonal Gully
Commentary: The route has never been repeated
Best season: From May to mid October.
Name of route: The edge of Karpenisoton (number 8)
First ascent: Xouliaras , Mitsou , Mpatzios
Grade of difficulty: IV+ (VI-)
Length: 350 meters
Quality of rock: Typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)
Permanent protection (bolts etc): Some pitons
Starting point: See photo
Necessary gear: Full climbing equipment
Return From the Diagonal or E4
Commentary: Very beautiful route and big
Best season: From May to September
Name of route: Fairy (7)
First ascent: The first 200 meters from Katopodis - Trasanis and the rest 200 from Spinthaki M & F, Loukaki N.
Grade of difficulty: IV , VI-
Length: 400 meters
Quality of rock: Typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)
Permanent protection (bolts etc): Some pitons
Starting point: The left ridge above the Rantanplan gully, opposite the edge of Karpenisiotes
Necessary gear: Full rock climbing equipment
Return: From the Diagonal or E4 path if you have taste for easier return and more walk.
Commentary: Big and beautiful route
Best season: From the end of May to mid October
