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Dikti Ice-mixed, Part I

Dikti, ice-mixed climbingDikti's only mountain shelter, is situated to the west of Limnakaro plateau, at an altitude of 1350m, 1 hour 45' min from Agios Georgios (village on Lassithi Plateau). Once its contruction is completed there will be 15 beds. Anyway it's a good place to stay before climbing.

Name of route: Cold wind (2 and 6)

First ascent: Spinthakis G & F

Grade of difficulty: Snow - ice 55 to 85 degrees

Length: 150 meters

Quality of rock and ice: From January to mid March depending on conditions (if you are lucky you will climb pure ice!)

Permanent protection (bolts etc.): None

Starting point: See photo

Necessary gear: Snow stakes and 1-2 ice screws

Return: From E4 path

Commentary: Fantastic route. The route is on the upper (second) face of Mt Spathi and it finishes next to the E4 path, a short distance from the summit. In two words: Excellent route. To start the route climb up the 45-55 degree slope and set up a belay on the snow ledge formed under an overhang, to the left of the steepest section. This can be climbed unroped if the party is good.

Best season: From January to March

Dikti, lasithi, Crete

Name of route: Summit direct (7 and 1)

Difficulty: 50-60 degrees snow, expansion 150 meters

Quality of rock and ice: usually good

Permanent securities (bolts etc.): None

Spot of beginning and access: See photo

Equipment: A couple of snow stakes

Return: From E4 path

Commentary: The Spinthakis brothers made the first ascent unroped (they did not find it necessary to rope up!)

Best season: From the first snowfalls and on

Ice climbing, Dikti

Name of route: Emergency exit (5)

First ascent: Spinthakis G & F

Grade of difficulty: 50 degrees ice and III rock

Length: 150 meters

Quality of rock and ice: Usually good

Permanent protection (bolts etc.): None

Starting point: See photo

Necessary gear: Snow stakes and 1-2 ice screws

Return: From E4 path

Commentary: Quick return and good quality of snow due to the fact that route is in the shade most of the day

Best season: From January to March

Name of route: Louki Ypoxorisis(1)

First ascent: Spinthakis F & G

Grade of difficulty: 40 degrees with a small steep section (up to 70 degrees or mixed)

Length: 400 meters

Quality of rock and ice: Usually good

Permanent protection (bolts etc.): None

Starting point: Left of "Odos Skirka" and "Annoula". The gully is well hidden behind a ridge but common sense and a bit of mountain experience (the obvious scree slopes at the bottom) show you the way in.

Necessary gear: Rock gear for the exit, 55m ropes for the final pitch.

Return: Return from the Diagonal or continue up to the summit and return with the E4.

Commentary: This gully is the return route from the rock climbs "Odos Skirka" and "Annoula". At the end of the gully climb the final pitch of Kri Kri (the wall on the left of the small overhang) to finish at the top of the face. The pitch is either rock or mixed but not demanding

Best season: From January to mid March

*Diagonal is number 4 on the photo-map

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