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Steno Faragi

Steno faragi overviewRoad access: Starting from Heraklion we head to Messara and then to Lentas. About 500 m before Lentas we turn left into a dirt road and we drive on till we are on a characteristic way up. The gorge starts on our right after having gone up. Then we need 15-20 min walking to the beach.

 


Weather conditions: In summer the temperature can be quite high (30-40o C), so you' better avoid moving in the afternoon. Start walking early in the morning or late in the afternoon. In winter things are quite better with much lower temperatures comparing to summer.

Comments: The Libyan Sea, nice rocks and an amazing quietness form quite a fantastic place. Steno Faraghi is really beautiful and offers a good number of routes.

Steno Faragi, Iraklio

Useful telephone numbers: Mountaineering Alpine Club of Iraklio, +30 2810 227609

Stay and comments: In the end it should be mentioned that in case there are other people at the beach, it'll be quite difficult to find a place in the shadow, so a kind of sunshade or a foil coverlet is necessary along with your sun lotion. You can stay only on the beach!

Never forget: we leave nothing behind us but footprints - we take nothing with us but pictures!

Necessary gear: The bolting of the routes means that minimal equipment is needed for climbing here: a single 60 metre rope and 15 quickdraws (runners) ,in addition to your personal gear.

Climbing routes:

*Route: Botiliarisma, difficulty grade V, V+, length 50 m. Opened by P. Tzikas, M. Tsambourakis, L. Paterakis, N. Loukakis and G. Sbokos. The quality of the rock is good and to repeat it you need full climbing gear (except pitons), as there are no bolts.

*Route: Ksekatharisma, difficulty grade VI, length 18 m. Opened by Stavros Spyropoulos, Stelios Asmargianakis and Artur Miros. At the belay of the route there is a 10 mm bolt with a carabiner, where you can abseil. The route has been cleared from some loose rock and for your belay you need 2-3 big friends and some nuts (3-9).

*Route: Paramythi Me Kako Trelos, difficulty grade VIII-, length about 20 m. This specific route is for the moment the most difficult one in Steno Faraghi, opened by George Spinthakis. The route is fully equipped with 10 mm bolts.

*The summer of 2000 many interesting routes opened by Zaras Dimitris and Aris Mauromatis. Here is..... ''Zbynek'' , ''Simpligades skepseis'' VIII ,''Douda'' VIII , ''Madrakoulos'' VIII- , ''Megustas marixouana'' VII- , ''Sousi tzouzi'' , ''Souzi tzouzi poli'' , ''Tres Jolli'' VIII- and ''Megustas to" *Apart from the routes above there are four more routes, difficulty grade from V+ to VIII+. There are also about 15 bouldering problems some marked with an arrow and grading UIAA-difficulty up to VIII+.

The bolting of the routes means that minimal equipment is needed for climbing here: a single 60 metre rope and 15 quickdraws (runners) ,in addition to your personal gear.

Steno faragi, Iraklio Crete

Difficulty grade of the routes: (from the left)

Photo 1: VI- ''no name'',

Photo 2: VI ''Thiriodamastis'' ,

Photo 3: VIII- " Paramythi Me Kako Telos".

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