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Malia Crag

This is an article written by by Gaetan Raymond and Stavros Psirropoylos regarding a new climbing area in one of the most popular areas around Iraklio, Malia. Malia’s crag is one of the most difficult crag of Crete. After all, it offers some easy routes for those you would like to try these.

Access : From Heraklion, when you arrive at Malia (1-2 km before) you can see the crag at your right. Then, pay attention to a road on your right (just after "Skyline rent a car"), there is a notice "Matheo Hotel". Then, pay attention to a road on your right (just after "Skyline rent a car"), there is a notice "Matheo Hotel".

Malia, Crete

Follow this road, after this hotel, continu on this road, and, at the next fork, go on the right. Then park at the end of this road (see the picture below).

Malia climbing

Keep in mind to leave some space for the owners. Take the path wich prolong the road. Walk around 200 m, you will have on your right the caracteristic fence (see the picture below). Go trough the fence where it is surround by the orange star on the picture. Then, get back to the crag.

Rock climbing in Malia, Hersonissos

Orientation : North-Est

Height : 25 – 30 m

Number of routes : 8

Equipment : fully bolted with karabiners at the end.

Number of quickdraws : 12

Climbing period : all the year, in the summer the crag is in the shade after 1 pm.

Malia climbing topo

1 : 5b : warming up, big hold, crux at the middle, long route. Koufia gi
2 : 7a : follow the crack (sustained), crux at the end, difficult on sight. Bradin Plinin
3 : 7c : boulder problem, difficult roof at the end. Anthilin
4 : 8a/a+? : some holds broke
5 : 8a? : hard at the start the longest and the most overhang route on the sector, good knee rest points, Talos
6 : 6b : sustained, a cave at the middle.
7 : 5c : loose rock at the beginning, but beautiful rock after, crux at the overhang.
8 : 6c

Comments: All routes opened by local and non-local climbers who all share the same passion for climbing; there are many possibilities for other routes on this small but very much promising rock.

To contact the autor : raymond_gaetan@hotmail.com

Gaetan climbing

Malia Rock climbing area

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