The first time I saw it I was awed. The second time I was left speechless looking at it for half an hour and the third time I shouted "belay" at the bottom of the imposing massif of Kofinas. One of the most beautiful mountains in Crete, south of Iraklio, with great climbing interest. The north face has three routes and the south has many routes of high difficulty.
North ridge
Name of route Abnormale
First ascent Zbynek Cepela
Grade of difficulty IV , V
Length 150 meters
Quality of rock Excellent in the first pitch , good in the rest
Permanent protection In the first pitch three bolts and one piton
Starting point See photo
Necessary gear Full climbing equipment
Return From the summit path
Commentary Very easy route with fantastic view
Best season From April to October
Name of route Dictamus
First ascent Zbynek Cepela
Grade of difficulty IV , V
Length 250 meters
Quality of rock Good. Be careful, some loose rocks
Permanent protection None
Starting point see photo
Necessary gear Full climbing equipment
Return from the same path with Abnormale
Commentary very good route with good moves
Best season From April to October.
Name of route Not finished
First ascent Asmargianakis S , Mauromatis A.
Grade of difficulty V+ (VI-)
Length 50 meters
Quality of rock Not good
Permanent protection None
Starting point thirty meters right from dictamus
Necessary gear Full climbing equipment
Return Right from the rocks
Commentary Nice route
Best season From May to September.
