The south face of Kofinas has something magical. The climber and the walker can enjoy dreamlike routes next to the clean waters of the Libyan sea. The imposing south massif of Kofinas is rising up from the sea creating vertical rocks which are surrounded by the unique pine-tree forest that is there. The possibilities for new routes are great but their difficulty makes them forbidding for now. In 1999 the most difficult mountain route in Crete was opened by two unknown to us climbers from Austria. It's length reaches the 350 meters and the difficulty is VIII, entirely climbed on natural protection. Further down the most important routes are mentioned.
Name of route Pilgerpfad
First ascent Zbynek Cepela
Grade of difficulty V,V+
Length 250 meters
Quality of rock Good
Permanent securities Some bolts and pitons
Starting point The ridge to the right of "Zizibe" in the middle of south face
Necessary gear Full climbing equipment (many big friends)
Return From the summit path
Commentary Fantastic route, one of the best in Crete
Best season From May to September.
Name of route Zizibe
First ascent Zbynec Cepela
Grade of difficulty VII+
Length 200 meters
Quality of rock Very good
Permanent securities Bolted belays, some bolts on the 2nd pitch
Starting point The wall (following the cracks) to the left of a tree, left of "Pilgerpfad"
Necessary gear Full climbing equipment
Return From the summit or right from the exit
Commentary Very serious route on natural protection
Best season When you feel very good.....
