Most of the routes described in this web guidebook were opened using Natural protection (nuts - friends etc) and the climbers of the first ascent Placed permanent protection (pegs - bolts) where they regarded it as absolutely necessary. Therefore we request that, during a repetition of these routes, the character and the way the route was first climbed are respected and no more permanent protection is placed.Such an unfortunate event has already taken place in the route "The Way to the Stars" in Agiofaraggo, one of the best crack routes in Crete, climbed in 1995 with nuts and friends but now littered with bolts. Let this one be the last.
Ziegenfalle All the seven of them were great! We are talking about the routes of this beautiful crag, a little further down and right from the Bastion. Almost all day long you can climb in the shade with the exception of the midday hours. Not all of the seven routes here are fully equipped with bolts but the quality of rock is more than excellent and the protected routes can be climbed on a top rope, since the length does not exceed 30 meters. To the right of crag there are slabs for friction climbing.
Routes:
Dionysos bauch VIII
Schaf in der ziegenfalle V+
Zauberstab VII
Humus IV- , V+
Norwind VII-
Herakles VI+
Kri - kri VII -
Minoische Bibliothek linker teil
The biggest climbing area as far as the routes and the difficulty are concerned, is that of the "Minoan Library". To go there we must follow the dirt track road that passes above the village, turn left to the first junction, right to the second and continue until we see down on our right a blue rock (more or less 2 km from the village).
From there the best solution is to do a short abseil (25 meters) in order to reach the beginning of the routes. In the Minoan Library you will find excellent quality of rock and difficulties from V to VIII+. The characteristic of the area, generally in Kapetaniana, is that the difficulty of a route is continious and rarely with crux moves. In case of crux moves then an overall grade is given and the grade of the crux in brackets.
If you visit this crag there is no way you will leave disappointed. Most of the routes are on the enormous upper band, however a bit to the west (200-300 meters) you can do one more abseil (25 meters down) and climb 4 more routes of the area. Drawings of the climbing area can be found in the Kapetaniana guidebook.
Erstes buch 1 pitch VII , 2 pitch VII-
Zweites buch VII- , VII
Drittes buch VIII , VIII+
La galere VII
Seul en tete V+
Toutes en tete V-
Flocon de niege VI , VI+
Rage de Crete V+ , VI-
