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Faragouli

Faragouli, Iraklio CreteMy first contact with the climbing area of Faragouli took place under really bad circumstances and as a result I tried to forget that it was a nice small climbing field. It was 11 in the morning when we reached the area with my climbing partner. The view from the 800 meters elevation was enchanting but it had nothing to do with what was about to happen to me.

 


Faragouli climbing, Iraklio Crete

I knew very little about the area or about climbing there, at that time, therefore I made the mistake of following the wrong line, only to find out after setting up the first belay. I started climbing what seemed to be an easy route. From sight I did not expect to face difficulties of more than grade V. Later on my prediction proved to be wrong and as a result I have stopped making predictions even now, after quite some time on the rocks and mountain faces.

Starting from the belay the first 15 meters were quite easy, however without satisfactory protection due to the loose rock. After a while I realized that I had reached a spot under a loose overhanging bloc which would fall (on me if I were unlucky) if it were only slightly touched. Fortunately, there was a crack for a good piton at the base of this difficult passage which I placed with great pleasure. That was it, my luck run out just then! A few seconds after placing the piton, the first raindrops fell on the rock and a few minutes later I saw an enormous piece of rock falling, heading towards my partner.

Luckily the belay was under an overhang and as a result the tumbling boulder went over us, leaving us free to enjoy the rest of the route. I continued climbing until I realized the meaning of VI and without protection! I even applied aid climbing to make a move. Finally, I managed to reach a magnificent stance where I screamed belay! My partner climbed quickly but was unable to remove the piton, since he wasn't carrying a hammer. The information we had about the route, which we never found, was that a set of nuts was enough. When we reached the exit of the route, soaked to the bone, my heart was beating fast and we saw the Hut of the Alpine Club of Iraklio which we visited and enjoyed a warm cup of tea.

This story is here in order to inform you about the lack of reliable information about this climbing route. In the following pages, the routes that are mentioned are those that I have personally climbed and those that the Spinthakis brothers have climbed (whose information and judgment are beyond doubt). Many routes are not mentioned due to lack of information. Soon this site will be updated with more information about each one of them. The Faragouli area named after a small gorge, is a few meters away from the Alpine club of Iraklio hut on the E4 path. The climbing routes are on the gorge walls and there is potential for a few more.

Due to the time-consuming approach and the small in length routes (up to 70 m), the Faragouli is not often visited by climbers. But it still remains a wonderful place and also close to the hut, where you can spend the night, after arranging your stay with the Alpine Club (Tel. 30-281-227609) or just contact us.

Routes:

''Kiss my ass'', VI- , 50 meters length (Spinthakis F. , Kopidakis N.)

''Kopsi tou fegariou'' ,VI- , 80 meters length (Spinthakis F. , Kopidakis N.)

''Epidorpio xoris geuma'',V+ VI- , 5o meters length (Kopidakis N. ,Spinthakis M.)

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