There are two choices from Heraklion. The first and most inexpensive one is to get the KTEL bus to Mires (52 km) and then a taxi to Kali Limenes (about 35?). The second one is to get a taxi straight from Heraklion until Kali Limenes (about 60?). However, as it may prove difficult to find a taxi to take you down there, you'd better get to Mires and change there, where it's much easier to find a taxi. For more information see the map of this region.Name of route: Indian (number 4)
First ascent: G.Galios, D.Zanis , S.Asmargianakis
Grade of difficulty: VII-
Length: 40 meters
Quality of rock: Perfect
Permanent protection: the whole of the route is protected with bolts
Starting point: To the right of Ariantho and Stealing from the Thief
Necessary Gear: Only extenders
Return: Same as Ariantho
Commentary: Very aesthetic and well protected sport cimbing route with nice sequence of moves
Best season: All year long
Number 5: VII+ (VIII-) opened by Spinthakis George and Aris Mauromatis (lenght about 25 meters) and the whole of the route is protected with bolts.
Name of route: The thief (3)
First ascent: Spinthakis G. ,Misiriotis A. , Stauroulakis G.
Grade of difficulty: VII-
Length: 35 meters
Quality of rock: Perfect
Permanent protection (bolts etc.): None
Starting point: See the photo
Necessary Gear: Small nuts and friends
Return: If you get to the top! Abseil from the belay, like for the Indian
Commentary: Originally placing the protection of the route was done with Ao - A1. The next day the route was climbed with the pro already in place. However George is strongly objecting to the idea of placing a couple of bolts, keeping it a "natural protection" route.
Best season: When you feel very well... (or after 5 beers and two espressos !!!)The "Stealing from the Thief'' is number 3. Numbers 1 and 2 are Ariantho and Variation. The last (4) is Indian. To the right of the "Indian" there is an overhanging rock (cave) with one route(VIII-, full of bolts).
Name of route: Ksotiko
First ascent: Galios G. , Zaras D.
Grade of difficulty: The first pitch V and the second VIII-
Length: 80 meters
Quality of rock: Good in the first pitch, perfect in the second
Permanent protection (bolts etc.): One bolt in the first pitch and bolts all along the second
Starting point Access: from the beach, see photo
Necessary Gear: Nuts and carabiners (runners)
Return: From the bolts on the exit
Commentary: The first pitch is easy though it needs to be careful right before during a negative spot due to the rotten rock. During the return with belay use the two bolts that exist and not the one that has been there for a long time and it's rotten.
Best season: All year long
Move on to climbing routes of Agio Farago:
| Climbing routes |
| Agio Farago, part I |
| Agio Farago, part II |
| Agio Farago, part IV |
