Attention!Most of the routes described in this web guidebook were opened using Natural protection (nuts - friends etc) and the climbers of the first ascent Placed permanent protection (pegs - bolts) where they regarded it as absolutely necessary. Therefore we request that, during a repetition of these routes, the character and the way the route was first climbed are respected and no more permanent protection is placed.Name of route: New horizons
First ascent: Spinthakis F. ,Krasanakis G. ,Mauromatis Aris
Grade of difficulty: VI+
Length: 150 meters
Quality of rock: Good for the first couple of pitches -loose in parts- very good for the last two pitches
Permanent protection (bolts etc.): None
Starting point: See photo
Necessary Gear: Full climbing rack (many big friends and big hexendrics)
Return: Left from the exit, work your way down by walking and scrambling, towards the sea. It is a rather long walk. Try to end up on the ledges above the water then do a tricky traverse right to reach the beach. Taking walking shoes with you is recommended. In rough seas completing the traverse without getting we is a challenge
Commentary: The best part of the route is the top crack. This has to be climbed in two pitches (make your own belay on natural protection under a small overhang) if the party does not have as many large friends and hexs as required
Best season: All year long
On the above photo you can see the route. What you aim for is the crack. To get there parallel movement is possible for the first 2 pitches (low difficulty) but belays and normal leading are recommended due to loose rock.
Name of route: Ariantho (old Greek name - 2b)
First ascent: Gabris M.,Maragaki A.,Spinthakis F.
Grade of difficulty: IV+ (V+)
Length: 50 meters
Duration: Hurry up in order to enjoy the view along and after the exit!
Quality of rock: Very good
Permanent protection (bolts etc.): One old bolt in the cave but avoid using it and another one on the second belay at the top
Starting point: From the beach, photo available
Necessary Gear: Nuts, slings , 4-5 friends, double ropes
Return: Two abseils are necessary in order to minimize rope drag on sharp rock. First do a short abseil (5-6 meters) from bolt on the top ledge (to the right of the exit) until another stance with two bolts, then from here start the second and final abseil.
Commentary: The route is usually climbed in two pitches in order to avoid unwanted rope drag. The crux move is right after the cave and friends or nuts are used for protection. The first pitch is ideal for those who want to make their first steps inside the magical world of climbing.
Best season: All year long
Name of route: Ariantho - variation (1)
First ascent: Lazaridis Stavros (solo)
Grade of difficulty: IV+
Length: 55 meters
Quality of rock: Very good
Permanent protection (bolts etc.): One bolt at the last belay
Starting point: Beside from Ariantho
Necessary Gear: Nuts , Slings, double ropes
Return: The same with Ariantho (from bolts)
Commentary: The route from the beginning to the end moves on the edge, a bit on the left of Ariantho and shares the exit.
Best season: All year long
Name of route: Ariantho - variation of the cave (2α)
First ascent: Spinthakis G. ,Kopidakis B
Difficulty: VI (VII)
Length: 55 meters
Quality of rock: Very good
Permanent protection (bolts etc.): Two bolts
Starting point: See the photo
Necessary Gear: Nuts, friends, slings, double ropes
Return: The same with Ariantho from one bolt
Commentary: The route shares the first pitch with Ariantho. From the first belay go directly up in the big cave, from its right side. The exit is on a good rock
Best season: All year long!
Move on to climbing routes of Agio Farago:
| Climbing routes |
| Agio Farago, part I |
| Agio Farago, part III |
| Agio Farago, part IV |
