14 Km southwest from Chania is the Therisos gorge. Here there are many routes for all tastes. Along the road to the village of Therisos are all the routes that vary from V up to VIII+ (UIAA) and almost all of them are protected with bolts. In some of them you may need nuts, friends and some slings. The landscape is unique and you will certainly enjoy your climbing. The easiest climbing area is the one with graffiti ''ΛΟΚ'', the initials of the Greek Special forces who use this area for rock climbing training.Route name: Houftoma
First climbing: Nikos Kalatzakis
Difficulty: V+ (VI+)
Length: 40m
Rock quality: Excellent
Permanent belays: Bolts at belay only
Starting point & access: See photo Materials: 1 set of nuts, straps and some friends
Return: By abseil from the same route.
On the right picture you can see the sketch of "Potato"
Route name: Potato
First ascent: Nikos Kalatzakis, Nikiforos Tsichlakis
Difficulty: VII+ Expansion: 15m
Rock quality: Excellent Permanent belays: Fully equipped with bolts
Starting point & access: Before a small bridge on the right. You need to be careful to see the rocks, as they are hidden behind some plane trees.
Return: By abseil from the same route
Venizelos is the longest route on Therissos climbing area. Its length is 150m and at the 3rd pitch the difficulty stays VI and VII-. Depending on the rope party you can climb three or four pitches, the latter recommended. The route is on your left heading to the village and its access is very short. To repeat the route you need full climbing equipment - helmet, nuts, friends and 2 -3 pitons, U-shaped and thin crack pitons recommended. The rock quality is excellent, there is hardly any loose rock. If you climb all the way to the top return walking a bit to the right of the route. It's a must if you visit the area.
Route name: No Name
First ascent: Nikos Kalatzakis, Nikiforos Tsichlakis
Difficulty :VII-
Expansion: 25m
Rock quality: Excellent
Permanent protection: None
Starting point & access: The route can be seen half the way on the crag on the right.
See photo Materials: The route has been climbed only with a top rope
Return: By abseil from the same route.
Route name: Dourios Ippos
First climbing: Nikos Kalatzakis, Nikiforos Tsichlakis
Difficulty: VI+ (VII-)
Length: 25m
Rock quality: Excellent
Permanent protection: None
Starting point & access: See photo (left)
Materials: A set of nuts, friends, slings
Return: By abseil from the same route.
Poison Route: This route is one of the most beautiful in Therissos concerning both the movements and its position: right next to the road just before the village. The difficulty for climbers shorter than 1.65 - 1.70m is VII- and for the taller ones is VII, that is "half" a grade more difficult That's because smaller people are able to get jammed in the crack and so they can climb up more easily. The route is fully equipped with bolts in an extremely good way!!
Those ones who detest bolts can climb in the traditional way, as the crack can be perfectly protected with middle and small sized friends. This specific route was opened by Nikos Kalatzakis and Nikiforos Tsichlakis with natural protection. The length of the route is no more than 20m. At the end of the route you can go on for 10 more meters until you reach the top of the hill. For that 10m pitch you need a couple of pitons and 2 - 3 friends.
