Route name: Apelpisia (=Despair)

First ascent: Nikos Kalatzakis

Difficulty: VII Expansion 30m

Rock quality: Excellent

Permanent belays: Fully equipped with bolts

Starting point & access: See photo (7)

Nessecary gear: Extenders

Return: By abseil from the same route.

The route "No Name 2" was opened by Nikos Kalatzakis. The difficulty is VI and its length 18m and there is no permanent protection. The rock quality is excellent. A set of nuts, friends and slings is needed. You return by abseil from the same route as in the rest of the routes.

The route "LOK" was opened by M. Mesarchakis and D. Sotirakis, its difficulty is VII+, length 30m and of course the rock quality is excellent. It's fully equipped with bolts and you only need some extenders.

The route "LOK Variation" has a difficulty of V+ (VI-), is 35m long and the rock quality is excellent. There are plenty of bolts but you also need a set of nuts and some slings.

Route "Children Play", difficulty V (V+) (number 3), length about 40m on a very good rock. You need a set of nuts, some slings and 3 - 4 small and medium friends. In the sketch all the four routes on this rock can be seen. It is situated right next to the road just before the village. The first route on the right is "Children Play" and "No Name 2" is next to it. The first route on the left is "LOK" and "LOK Variation" is next to it. The latter were opened during a climbing course organized by the Alpine Club of Chania. On this specific rock there is the possibility of some more routes of medium to high difficulty. What is characteristic for this crag is the word ΛΟΚ (LOK) painted on the rock by some special forces soldiers. Don't think they climbed the route (VII+) with their army boots on! They did a simple abseil.

All the three routes are fully equipped with bolts. To repeat them you only need some sets. It's incredible how these three routes have managed to get into a rock no wider than 4m! The rock quality is excellent with a lot of holes on its surface. The highest route is about 30m and they are quite impressive, as they start from the street. Be careful not to be run over, as the ropes are on the road! You can see a sketch of the routes below, though it's not necessary; as soon as you are at the bottom of the rock you can easily see the πλακέτες and the way each route goes up.

Routes

Thyroulis: (on the left in the sketch), difficulty VII- and expansion 20m

Matrix: (in the middle in the sketch), difficulty VIII- and expansion 30m, opened by N. Fiotodimitrakis.

Adrenaline: (right route in the sketch), difficulty VII- and expansion 30m.