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Mount Kofinas: Routes

Area Info

If you haven't read the introduction article of Kofinas please do so as it contains vital information about the area and how to access the routes described in this page. There are two ways to aproach the routes on north face of Kofinas. The first one from Sternes village (click here to see a detailed map) and the second one from Kapetaniana (click here to see that map too). Both need an off road car as in some parts of the road the surface is really bad. You can however aproach the area by walking. You will need an hour from Kapetaniana to the small church on the bottom of the routes.Four routes opened in this area at the moment, all multi pitch. One of them are still under construction so no further details will be given until we sort out the whole route.
To access the routes on the south face as described in the introduction article just take the path to the monastery of Koudouma and somewhere in the middle turn left.

Route name: Abnormale (1)8 bolts50 meter rope needed
Grade: 5b
Length: 80 meters
Protection: Two very old bolts on 1st pitch, full trad climbing equipment needed. This route start just a few minutes away from the small church located in the base of the mountain. It is a characteristic wall. The route is splitted into 3 pitches. The most difficult is the first pitch somewhere in the middle (where the old bolts are) and also the 3rd pitch for its last 10 meters due to rotten rock. Two bolts exist on the route but are very old and is highly recommended to use your own gear. Unfortunately on the wall that those 2 bolts placed is not possible to protect it with nuts/friends etc so be prepared for a runout of around 8 meters on 5b. Nuts and friends along with plenty of slings needed. Return from the summit by walking the main path. A great multi pitch route for newbies.
Route name: Dictamus (2)50 meter rope needed
Grade: 5b
Length: 150 meters
Protection: Only our love cheeky, full trad equipment needed
Route name: Pilgerpfad  (3)8 bolts50 meter rope needed
Grade: 5b
Length: 180 meters
Protection: A few old bolts. Full trad climbing equipment needed. This is a superb 5 pitches route
Route name: Traumecke (4)8 bolts50 meter rope needed
Grade: 5b
Length: 30 meters
Protection: Nothing, full trad climbing equipment needed. An excellend easy route with good places for protection
Route name: Mondschein (5)50 meter rope needed
Grade: 6a/6a+
Length: 30 meters
Protection: Nothing, full trad climbing equipment needed
Route name: Zizibe (6)8 bolts 50 meter rope needed
Grade: 6b
Length: 150 meters
Protection: A few bolts. This is a really hard trad route with difficulties on placing gear. The most difficult route in the south face (it's harder than you might think!)
Route name: Easy Polish route (7) 50 meter rope needed
Grade: IV
Length: 150 meters
Protection: None, this is a traditional route. It's very easy route opened from Polish climbers in 2008. See detailed topo of the route on the next page.

Detailed climbing topos of each route can be seen in the next page.



Posted on: 04/08/2011 By: Stelios Asmargianakis






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