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Fighter

"Polemistis" (fighter) is situated on the " Wall of Agrimia" (wild goats) between the routes "Oxia" and "Fleap and Freak". A characteristic point of the route that can help you to locate it is the 20-meter corner of the third pitch, which is a bit to the left and lower than the big corner of "Oxia".

After having reached the bottom of the wall, where the "Oxia" and "Chaotic End" start, we climb for 15-20 m and reach a ledge. That's the point where our route starts. For the first pitch for 35 m we climb aiming the corner of the third pitch. Then we traverse to the left for 15 m. At the first belay, the same as in "Oxia", there are two pitons - the only permanent protection of the route - The second pitch starts with a corner (VI-VII) and then a traverse (VII) to the right, until the bottom of the corner. The third pitch is the most difficult of the route (VII+). We climb up the corner and we continue for some more meters. Belay in a small crack.
At the fourth pitch we continuously move slightly to the right aiming the roof. Belay below it.

We climb underneath the roof to the right and then straight upwards following the crack. (* UNDER THE ROOF, THE HELMET AND THE RUCKSACK CAN BRING YOU VERY CLOSE TO FALLING). At the sixth and seventh pitch we climb aiming the right part of "Kitrina Parathyra" ( "Orange Windows" Square yellow patches) . We climb here on big slabs and slightly instable blocks. We walk a few meters to the right along the long ledge and then straight upwards on the wall (VI) that leads us to "Megalo Louki" (Big gully). We proceed in the scree slope for 70 m to the bottom of an slab. We climb up the crack in the center of the wall and we make our tenth belay on its top.

We are still in the gully. We continue for 45 more meters on the scree slope and we reach a ledge exactly where the gully ends. The twelfth pitch starts with a small, vertical passage, a chimney follows, then a crack to the right and a corner. The thirteenth pitch starts with a slab on the right and after about 25 m to the right and upwards. The belay on top of the edge. We continue for 250-300 m to the top (II to VI).

Source: Magazine Anevainontas

 

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Posted on: 20/09/2016






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