Posted on: Sep 20, 2016

Climbing in Kapetaniana

Photo taken by Stelios Asmargianakis
The rock is dominant in the whole village that nowadays doesn't have more than 150 inhabitants. In the earlier years it had up to 500 people. The other thing that impresses the visitor as he passes the entrance of the village is the amount of water. Even during the summer, when the heat in Crete is unbearable, you will find water running between the houses of the village. Kapetaniana is one of the few villages in the prefecture of Iraklio that doesn't have drought problems. Generally the climatic conditions in the island are perfect for hiking. Apart from the things described lower (climbing, hiking, canyoning) in the mountainous area of Asterousia you can enjoy many more interesting things like a drive with a car, a ride with a bike on the innumerable dirt-roads that lead to beaches with the deep and clean water of south Crete.

Due to the altitude of the area (800 meters) climbing in Kapetaniana is possible even in the middle of summer. If you happen to be there at that time, with some luck, you will enjoy the cool breeze that blows during these months and makes everything a pleasure.

The only disadvantage of the area is the long time required to get there as there is no public transport to Kapetaniana. For those who have a mean of transport the only thing that they have to do is to buy a map and stick to it because even with a map they may find it difficult to reach the village. For the rest there is a bus which starts from Iraklio and is heading to Agii Deka. From there, there are two choices. The first is to get a taxi to Kapetaniana (more or less 5000-6000 dr.) and the second one is to hitchhike, thing that we don't recommend as the vehicles that are heading there aren't more than 5-6 a day. After you reach Kapetaniana you'll have to stay in a tent or much better to Luisa and Gunnar's guest house where you can taste excellent food.

More information about the guest house can be found by sending an email to Louisa to either or After you arrange your stay it is time to get more information about climbing. The quality of the rock is the best you can find in Crete and of course it is limestone. You won't find loose rocks apart from Kofinas.Almost all of the areas are sport climbing (only extenders and a couple of slings needed) as the routes are protected with 10mm bolts and belays are equipped with bolts and chains.

As far as Kofinas is conserned you will need full climbing equipment and a helmet. Enjoy one of the best places for climbing in Crete and defently in Greece. Not only because it has great routes but mainly because it is located in one of the most beautiful areas in the island.



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