Rock Climbing Routes
The cave of Psychro is one of the most important cult places of Minoan Crete. The use of caves as cult places was one of the basic characteristics of the religious beliefs of the ancient Cretans. What this has to do with rock climbing in Dikti? The answer is, nothing but it's close to Dikti and it's a good place to visit :) Let's talk about climbing now.... Detailed description about the rock climbing in Dikti.
Below you can see a topo of the whole mountain during the winter. The topo shows only the summer/rock climbing routes, I just use that photo to outline better the routes due to contrast with the snow. Photo is too old although (taken at 1997) but still up to date.
Route name: Annoula
(2)
Grade: V- (Vi-)
Length: 120 meters
Protection: One piton on the first belay, do not use it, it's very old.
Return: Same as Odos Skirka. Alternatively scramble the gully up to its end and climb up a 50m pitch to the reach the top of the face. In this case descend through the Diagonal Gully
Route name: Odos Skirka
(1)
Grade: IV
Length: 100 meters
Protection: None, typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places)
Return: Left from the exit (see photo) downclimb and walk down the gully. Alternatively scramble the gully up to its end and climb up a 50m pitch to the reach the top of the face. In this case descend through the Diagonal Gully
Route name: Kri Kri
(3)
Grade: V
Length: 190 meters
Protection: A few old pittons. There is also a small variation of the route for the last pitch. It can be done direct and goes up to VI-. If you feel ok try it!
Route name: Diktamos & variation
(4a & 4)
Grade: IV
Length: 150 meters
Protection: None, typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places).
Route name: The edge of tsikoudia
(5)
Grade: V+
Length: 150 meters
Protection: A few pittons only on the first two belays, do not trust them. It's not easy to make your belays if you are newbie. One of the best routes in the area, highly recommended.
Return: From the Diagonal (Photo on the bottom of the page), around one and a half hour until the small church at Limnakaro plateau. Start climbing early in the morning to avoid getting over burned!
Route name: Indian
(6)
Grade: 6a
Length: 140 meters
Protection: A few pittons on the 2nd pitch and one on the first. You need to make full 50 meters pitches to reach a goob belay. 1t pitch is around V+, second VI+ (~6a) and 3rd a little bit easier. The second pitch is really hard to secure. Small friends and nuts are must. This is a MUST route if you can lead pitches on this grade. Definetely the most beautiful route in the whole mountain. You need around 1 hour and 45 minutes to reach the starting point of the route.
Return: From the Diagonal (Photo on the bottom of the page)
Route name: Fairy
(7)
Grade: IV (Vi-)
Length: 400 meters
Protection: Some very old pitons (do not use them), typical mountain limestone (a bit loose in places).
Return: From the Diagonal (Photo on the bottom of the page) or E4 path if you have taste for easier return and more walk.
Route name: The edge of Karpenisiotion
(8)
Grade: IV+ (Vi-)
Length: 350 meters
Protection: Some very old pitons (do not use them). Nice and easy route, just pay attention to the last pitch which is the most difficult.
Return: From the Diagonal (Photo on the bottom of the page) or E4 path if you have taste for easier return and more walk.
On the above topo you can see an outline of the route "Diagonal / Diagonio". This is a climbing path where allmost all routes need to take to get you down to Limnakaro plateau.
Sponsored Links: Walmart Flyer, Canadian Tire Flyer, Loblaws Flyer
Apart from the above routes there are also few more but I don't have any info on them. Some of these have not been repeated since their first ascent during the Greek Climbing Meeting in 1987, organized by the Mountaineering club of Iraklio and the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing.If anyone knows more about those routes drop me an email.
- Latzoi , first ascent by Katopodis
- Trasanis L.
- Alexia, first ascent by Georgakopoulos G
- Karavelas N. , 120 meters IV
- Falling Lessons, first ascent by Litsas G., Papa D., Manalis K., 120 meters IV
-Little Finger, first ascent by Georgakopoulos , Lamprinaki , 25 meters IV
-Moving staircase, first ascent by Karampelas N., Nikolopoulou Kl. , 100 meters III.
