Name of route: Rataplan (4)

First ascent: Spinthakis F. & M , Loukakis N, Grammatikakis G.

Grade of difficulty: V+ rock and 90o degrees ice(depending on conditions)

Length: 350 meters

Quality of rock and ice: Usually good

Permanent protection (bolts etc.): One piton in the "mirror" section, one on the ledge to the right of it. One piton in the "mirror" section, one on the ledge to the right of it.

Starting point: The gully between The Fairy and the Edge of Karpenisiotes

Necessary gear: Full climbing equipment

Return: From the Diagonal or continue all the way to the summit and walk down the E4

Commentary: Fantastic route. In the 3rd pitch there is a small (15 meters) vertical wall ("The Mirror") with a waterfall usually out of condition. As a result you have to do a small mixed or rock traverse to the right and belay on the ledge (piton). From here traverse to the left (again rock or mixed) until back inside the gully. The waterfall was for the first time in 1999 by Spinthakis G and Asmargianakis S.After the "Mirror" experienced climbers can move parallel (45-60degrees)

Best season: From January to March

Name of route: Diagonal (number 4)

First ascent: Unknown climbers

Grade of difficulty: In the worst occasion III+ grade rock and 45-50 degrees snow

Length: 400 meters

Quality of rock and ice: Depends on the conditions. Avoid it after heavy snowfall

Permanent protection (bolts etc.): none

Starting point: See photo. Avoid starting at the very bottom of the gully, since there is a steep, time consuming, rock section. Walk up the left ridge instead until under the wall then traverse right and enter the gully.

Necessary gear: A snow stake and some rock gear should be enough

Return: Reverse it ! Or read below Commentary Easy gully, ideal for beginners. The usual return route after climbing in Dikti. A bit exposed on stonefall, especially during the warm times of the day. If there are beginners in the party it is nice to continue all the way up to the summit either via the NW ridge or the "Summit Direct" route and descent from the E4 path Best season After the first 2-3 snowfalls.

Name of route: Mad (2)

First ascent: Spinthakis G and Kopidakis N

Grade of difficulty: V rock and 70 degrees ice

Length: 300 meters

Quality of rock and ice and duration: Due to psychology and weather. Usually there isn't a lot of ice or frozen snow just so as the first one climb without a fall. Ice? Rock? Some verglace or a thin layer of snow stuck on the rock. Difficult to get in condition.

Permanent protection (bolts etc.): One piton half way up the 2nd pitch. Long runouts on poor natural protection Starting point: The "gully" between KriKri and Diktamos.

Necessary gear: Complete rock gear rack and a couple of ice screws. Absolutely essential a couple of big friends (like No 4-5 Camalots) to set up the 2nd belay

Return: From the Diagonal

Commentary: "I knew you were mad today you certified it!" This is what Nikos Kopidakis told George Spinthakis when he topped the route (hence the name). The most serious mixed route on the mountain so far, requiring dry tooling techniques. After all the hard stuff the route joins the easy scrambling section where "Diktamos" and the "Edge of Tsikoudia" meet

Best season: If you are lucky by the end of February or the beginning of March but never know. Difficult to get in condition.